Friday, January 11, 2013

Bellandur’s Hundred-Year Sprint

A peek into our community's past and what we can learn from it

It was July of 2008 when my parents and I boarded a flight from San Francisco International Airport, arriving twenty-four hours later in Bangalore. Unlike our usual journeys, this one was not a round trip. We were leaving the United States and moving to India for good.

We soon settled down in a comfortable, modern apartment somewhere on the outskirts of Bangalore – in an erstwhile village called Bellandur, now part of Greater Bangalore. I had a new house, a new school, and new friends… but most importantly, a new town to explore.

The Bellandur neighborhood
Investigate! Explore! Dig! To me, these words conjure up magic. Since childhood, I have always been interested in digging, whether it had to do with geology, archaeology, or paleontology. I have a fascination for the past. I was enthralled with stories of Ancient Egypt, Rome, Greece, and Peru. To quench some of this thirst, my parents and I even vacationed in Mexico and Egypt, visiting Mayan and Pharaonic monuments and historic sites. The magnitude and perfect symmetry of the pyramid at Chichen-Itza captivated me. I stared endlessly in awe at the archaic monoliths of Giza, silhouetted against a full moon and a star filled sky. I absorbed every piece of detail I could obtain about these ancient civilizations. I even tried my hand at hieroglyphics.

When I say “a town to explore”, my expectations of course are muted. Bangalore clearly did not have the same appeal as ancient Mayan or Egyptian history. I had never heard of anything interesting with respect to Bangalore. All I ever associated with this city were phrases like “Information Technology” and “outsourcing”. What could this city possibly hold in store for me, a student of history?

Apartment complexes in Bellandur
As luck would have it, I met two very interesting people over the last three years. I met Dr. Aruni of The Indian Council for Historical Research in 2010. He shared his passion for history, and showed me several hundred-year old artifacts that he recovered from various metro rail construction sites and offered me access to resources on old Bangalore. More recently I traveled to Chennai and met Dr. Shanti Pappu, an eminent archaeologist and co-founder of the Sharma Heritage Centre there. She too encouraged me immensely. Interestingly, both advised me to do a micro-history project of my locality; they felt that I would enjoy it immensely and would learn a lot in the process. Reluctantly, I agreed. After all, what would Bellandur have to offer in terms of history or historical interest?

I couldn’t have been any farther from the truth. My work in this area over the last two months has given me a perspective I never had. I have gained a deep and abiding respect for so many small things that make a small community rich and vibrant.

If you have read this far, thank you very much. But before I move ahead, let me pause and ask you a straightforward question. “Why should history matter to us?” How will the assassination of, say, Julius Caesar, or the War of 1812, affect our lives in any way?

As Mark Twain said, “history tends not to repeat itself, but rhyme”. History serves as an important link between the past and the future. Events of the past tend to show up again in the future in a somewhat similar fashion. History tells us the story of the lives of people who lived before us, and the mark they made on their world. History is also the story of our evolution - our food, clothes, language, religion, and lifestyle are a result and reflection of our history. History gives a person a sense of belonging. Studied well, history is likely to also tell us where we, as a community or country, are likely to head.

I soon figured that learning the history of our immediate neighborhood could be just as enriching, informative, and captivating as the fascinating stories of Ancient Egypt and Rome. Culture, after all, is a vital component to a person’s character.

So I set out on a mission to collect as much information as I could about Bellandur, so that I knew how to make myself a part of history. I was surprised to know that just a little bit of history made a world of difference to the way I perceived this place I now call “home”.

To those like me who are not native to this wonderful state and city, here is a little primer. Karnataka officially became a state on November 1, 1956 – it was formerly known as the State of Mysore. It borders Goa, Maharashtra, Tamil Nadu, Kerala, and Andhra Pradesh. With 61 million residents, it is the ninth largest state in India by population, and the eighth largest by area. Bangalore, Mangalore, and Mysore are its biggest cities.

Bangalore has been coined “the Silicon Valley of India” due to its huge contribution to the growth of the information technology industry in India. While Bangalore has been an urban center for a long time, the phenomenal growth of the information technology industry has lead to its rapid modernization and urbanization. When I say “rapid”, understand that hundred years ago, the inhabitants of my little “erstwhile” village called Bellandur never had electricity.

Bellandur itself has a curious and very interesting history. I learnt a lot about it during my long sitting with Mr. Jagannatha Reddy, a respected community member of Bellandur, and former Sarpanch. We sat inside a large, beautiful temple that is under construction right next to the lake. He gave me insights that books could not have given me. He told me stories that I could not have read anywhere. Apart from speaking to Mr. Reddy, I also scoured other sources for material about Bellandur. My understanding of Bellandur has been enriched significantly by these interactions and readings.

So now, let me transport you back in time. The year is 1914. A relatively unknown Indian lawyer by the name of Mohandas Karamchand Gandhi returns to his native Porbandar in Gujarat from South Africa, and starts what is to become the greatest freedom movement ever. Closer home, a far more trivial event happens. Three Reddy families leave their native Andhra Pradesh, with nothing but a few clothes, travel on foot through rough terrain in search of a place they can settle down and earn a living. After several days, they reach this tiny village by an expansive, crystal clear lake. They make Bellandur their home. The Reddys are farmers, so they fit in well with the small community of fifteen families living there. Soon, the hardworking Reddys own sprawling fields growing paddy, ragi, guavas, apples, and grapes. The Reddys are also adept fishermen and experienced cattle herders. With their versatility, they are soon one of the wealthiest families in Bellandur.

Like every great civilization, Bellandur develops on its road to progress. In 1935, one of the Reddy males decides to renovate the existing temple. Months of labor and hard work result in a small but impressive temple. The new temple complex adds character to the little village. This “change is necessary for development” attitude seems to be the hallmark of Bellandur.

Temple built on the banks of Bellandur Lake
The 1940s herald the first significant signs of modernization. 1940 sees the arrival of the bicycle as a means of transport. Seemingly trivial, this is the beginning of the influence of western technology on rural Bellandur. 1947 is another landmark year - a Muslim resident sets up a rice huller to process the rice that the local farmers grow. And to power the huller, electricity is drawn from the city of Bangalore. This relatively insignificant event proves to be a giant leap for the village.

Throughout the 1900s, Bellandur Lake is an integral part of the village. Fishermen fish in the crystal-clear lake, children swim in the refreshing waters, and farmers harbor the water to irrigate their fields. By the 1960s though, the lake looses its pristine beauty. Colossal seaplanes begin landing on its still waters, disrupting the peace and tranquility. This of course restricts access to the lake at times, but it definitely puts Bellandur on the map.

In 1962, the village establishes a Panchayat, with people’s representatives running the affairs of the village. This is a remarkable feat because what Bellandur manages to establish sixty years after its birth, “advanced” countries such as France and Germany took nearly a thousand years to establish! The village is now self-governing, and prosperous.

In 1965, a bus service connects Bellandur village to Bangalore City, a distance of twenty kilometers. The village is finally recognized as a settlement in its own right.

By 1970, Bellandur’s population crosses 200. The iconic “Bullet” motorcycle finds a home in Bellandur. Lift irrigation from the Bellandur Tank is implemented in 1978. The lush fields of Bellandur are a deep emerald color, speckled with dabs of vibrant yellow bushes and vivid red flowers.

By 2000, the effects of Mr. Jagannatha Reddy’s progressive Panchayat are clearly evident. In 1994, computers are donated to government schools in Bellandur so that kids are technically qualified for jobs that are slowly showing up in the area. Interestingly, government schools have computers even before private schools do. In 1998, the village Panchayat wangles a computer from the state government to digitize land records! Revenue leakage is plugged, and bribery dramatically reduced. Land records and revenue data is now available at the click of a button. Official correspondences are typed, stored, and printed from the computer instantly. Prior to this, they had to travel several kilometers to the High Court to get a letter typed. Waste segregation begins in Bellandur in the early ‘90s, a system introduced only in 2003 in the United Kingdom.

The year is now 1994. Mr. Jagannatha Reddy is elected as the Sarpanch in 1994 and revolutionizes grass roots politics in India in his own way. Gram Sabha meetings are broadcast live to all residents of Bellandur, as a way to drive transparency in governance. Mr. Reddy also introduces ward level communication, which allows different wards within Bangalore to cooperate and collaborate with each other, leading to a widespread flow of thoughts and ideas, and sharing of best practices.

Mr. Jagannatha Reddy’s  persistence and dedication pays off. Bellandur is transformed into one of the most advanced wards in not only the city, but also the whole country. It wins an award from the Government of India for its transformative initiatives.

During my research, I found that there is an infinite amount of data about Bellandur, dating back from early topographical surveys done by British cartographers to word-of-mouth from elderly residents, still living along the banks of Bellandur Tank. Yet from this small effort of mine, I have learnt an enormous lot about Bellandur. I am proud to be a member of this “village”.

There is something I have learnt through this study of Bellandur’s history. The residents of Bellandur follow one principle: “Not new things, but new ways”. For instance, “Bellandurians” introduced “lift irrigation” well before many other villages did, as a means to water their fields. Bellandurians also saw the benefit of garbage segregation very early. They had the foresight to embrace computers and technology, familiarizing their children with computers so that they were better prepared for jobs of the future. Finally, Bellandurians used television to improve transparency in their Panchayat.

The list is endless. What this small village of Bellandur has done to a country of 1.2 billion people is flabbergasting. Bellandur is a fantastic neighborhood with some of the most resourceful and enterprising minds in the country; it is stunning to see how far a village can progress in just under a century.

This short exercise in studying Bellandur’s past helped me understand a small civilization’s march towards progress over a relatively short period of time. If anything, this project has further helped to reinforce my interest in the subject. I shall continue to dig deep into the past to understand the ancient civilizations of China, India, Greece and Rome. As a six year old, I was always found squatting over a small pit that I had freshly dug, stick in hand, and with a smug yet content look on my face; now, as a seventeen year old, I am often found poring over a Wikipedia page, “digging” for more information to gain extra insight into history. I did not quite fathom my fascination with digging.

Until now.

To me, digging is just a way of understanding. It helps me uncover the past as a way to understand the present. It allows me to delve deeper and deeper into the endless abyss of knowledge until my craving and curiosity has been satisfied - for the time being at least. I know that as long as I keep digging, I will keep discovering.